The Royal’s blog
Lakeland 100: More than just a race
A personal reflection by Ali Dixon
A few days after Lakeland 100 I’ve had chance to gather my thoughts.
Lakeland 100 is an iconic 100-mile route through the Lakes, but it’s much more than that. In the past, friends had talked about its unique atmosphere, its wacky themed checkpoints where volunteers in fancy dress look after you, feed and water you, and ensure you don’t stop too long.
I knew all that, and yet on the start line it all felt rather surreal.
The atmosphere was different to other long-distance races. The pre-race briefing wasn’t about competition; it was about friendship, encouragement and celebrating the fact that we were all there. Perhaps the 50% failure rate had something to do with that.
As we set off, the nerves disappeared, the body relaxed and settled into the rhythm of the run. One section at a time. One climb. One kilometre done… only another 164 to go.
Checkpoint one.
Checkpoint two.
Wasdale.
Then darkness came.
I like running in the dark. It’s just me and the small world I can see in the beam of my headtorch. Despite living in the Lakes, I don’t know this first part of the route particularly well. We climbed through the darkness, a trail of headtorches stretching ahead and behind, creating one vast illuminated snake across the fells.
As we descended into Black Sail, I was back on familiar ground.
Over to Buttermere.
Then Keswick.
Then the Old Coach Road.
And finally, the part I’d been thinking about for a very long time.
As the sun came up along the Old Coach Road, I descended into Dockray and Checkpoint 8 at The Royal Hotel.
Here, the Hardmoors crew made me a cheese and pickle sandwich and handed me the best cup of tea I’d had in a very long time.
I’d been thinking about this moment for months. How would I feel? Would the legs still be strong? One thing I knew for certain…
I couldn’t drop out here.
Mustn’t stay long.
We’re almost halfway.
Only 55 miles still to go.
Recharged, I headed off around Gowbarrow, one of my favourite paths in the Lakes. Looking down, I noticed the cattle grazing in the fields at Gowbarrow Farm – the same cattle that provide the beef for our burgers at The Royal.
Then came Dalemain.
Pooley Bridge.
Howtown.
Fusedale.
I was slowing now.
The legs no longer had the same power they had just a few hours earlier.
Haweswater.
Kentmere.
Then Ambleside.
That was emotional.
Crowds cheering.
My family running alongside me.
I knew from there I could get to the finish, even if it was still over a marathon away.
Just. Keep. Moving.
Chapel Stile.
Tilberthwaite.
Then, at last, the final climb up Jacob’s Ladder.
My ankle hurt.
The final descent.
My knee hurt.
Through Coniston.
You hear the crowds.
And then…
It’s done.
105 miles.
6,800 metres of ascent.
14 checkpoints.
A week later, the memory of the hard kilometres has already begun to fade. Sore limbs recover.
What remains are the highlights.
The achievement of completing the route.
Smiling faces.
Dockray at dawn.
Never-ending paths.
Family and supporters cheering.
The relief of crossing the finish line.
But, mostly, what stays with me is the incredible sense of community.
Runners helping other runners.
Volunteers putting in long shifts in remote Lakeland valleys.
Everyone going above and beyond to encourage people to push themselves and discover what they’re capable of.
This really is a different event.
Unique.
Competitive, yet inclusive.
Fun, yet immensely challenging.
Would I do it again?
On the finish line I said no.
Now…
It’s maybe.
Probably.
OK then… yes.
There’s always scope to do it better.
A lovely review of The Royal by Sue from @lifehop
The Location
There’s a special kind of magic that settles over me when I’m driving along narrow, stone-walled lanes in the Lake District. As I headed up Park Brow to The Royal Hotel at Dockray, leaving the hum of the summer crowds behind me, there was a resonant quiet, interrupted only by the sound of sheep and birds.
Sheep herding at Dockray
This is one of those rare places that feels less like a hotel and more like a well-kept secret. Just 1.5 miles from the shimmering shores of Ullswater, The Royal Hotel is the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle. Even at the height of the season, Dockray is a pocket of peace where time seems slower, nudging me to breathe more deeply and be mindful of my surroundings.
The Gardens
One of the first things I noticed as I arrived, was the connection to nature and how the air feels purer. The hotel’s garden is a thriving micro-ecosystem filled with bees and butterflies buzzing and fluttering through the wildflowers. Two hammocks were swinging in the shade of ancient oak trees and a couple of chickens were nonchalantly roaming around a giant chess set.
The History
Stepping inside The Royal Hotel at Dockray, I felt hugged by a quintessential, olde-worlde charm that money can’t buy. You can sense the history of the building in its bones with chunky oak lintels crowning inglenook fireplaces and local artwork depicting the Lakeland landscape. Welcomed by the lovely Bart, I felt as though I was a familiar face and that I’d been here many times before.
Royal Hotel Rooms
My bedroom was a sanctuary in every sense of the word. Sash windows framed the prettiest view of country lanes and exposed wooden beams reminded me of the hotel’s history, which dates back to the 16th century. Even the botanical scent of Pure Lakes toiletries is the perfect nod to the natural landscape. There really is more charm here than you can shake a shepherd’s crook at.
Dining at The Royal
The food at The Royal Hotel Dockray is as honest as the setting. Everything is homemade and showcases the natural flavours of the local produce. Who knew that houmous could be so incredible? It had a delicious zestiness unlike any houmous I’ve tasted before (I eat a lot of houmous!) The baked salmon was melt-in-your-mouth tender and served with new potatoes and salad, so its flavour shone without being overpowered. I also had the pleasure of meeting the hotel owner, Ali, whose relaxed, hands-on and down-to-earth approach reflects the authentic warmth that defines The Royal.
After dinner, I sloped upstairs to my room and enjoyed a great night’s sleep, only to be stirred the next morning by the sound of a local farmer herding his sheep up the lane. It was a magical sight to wake up to and left me beaming from ear to ear.
Greeted by Monika’s infectious smile at breakfast, I tucked into the creamy scrambled eggs and smoked salmon – a hearty start that set me up for the “Gowbarrow Challenge”. This seemed to be a rite of passage for fell walkers staying at The Royal Hotel, so I had to give it a go. Sadly, my tendency to stop for photos every five minutes made it a very a poor attempt. Still, it was a fabulous walk along beautiful country trails to the summit, with far-reaching views over Ullswater.
Things to Do Near Dockray
The famous Aira Force, one of the most impressive waterfalls in the Lake District, is also worth a visit during a stay here. Surrounded by ancient woodland, the cascades tumble down moss-covered rocks below a series of Victorian bridges.
There are plenty of outdoor activities and things to do at Ullswater, all within easy reach of The Royal Hotel. I was fortunate enough to be blessed with glorious sunshine, so I made the most of it and went kayaking and swimming in the lake.
Whether you want to tackle the fells, take a dip in Ullswater or sit in the garden and lose yourself in a good book, The Royal Hotel in Dockray is a gentle reminder to slow down and just breathe.